Eating Wrong
Deborah Madison’s new book is fuel for fruit fanatics. The three words of the title, Seasonal Fruit Desserts, contain many suggestions—the most blatant and mouthwatering of which are conjured by the word “desserts,” written in giant typeface on the book’s cover. That emphasis probably plays well in booksellers’ aisles but, in practice, it’s almost a constraint: The book is actually a page-by-page insurgency against the over-sugared, unimaginative indulgences that plague the American plate.
